Carlo Viglione Dolcetto, 0,75L
Regarded for years as a peasant’s grape and restricted to casual drinking, Dolcetto has lived through the 90s to see a rebirth. Still ongoing today with the nouvelle vague of ‘natural wine’, Viglione’s version, to drink throughout the meal, is an intensely fruity and hearty wine with earthy notes of spice and plum.
What's tradition? An once-succesful innovation. When Giulio Viglione was a kid, for vignerons from Piemonte the vanguardist turning point was to start bottling their own wine, instead of selling the grapes to collective wineries: his father Carlo tried, using big oak tanks (25/40hl) to ferment his barbera, dolcetto, Barolo-bound nebbiolos. Today, piedmontese wine has crossed through the new wave from the '90s having imposed to the markets international taste and barriques, favoring the expansion of this industry to a global level: as that happened, Giulio Viglione was accepting the family trade, offbeatly keeping his winemaking traditional, with no help from any small oak. Today we witness, with the comeback of wine markets to a taste for 'spontaneous' products (prizing the personality of wines and grapes, their natural evolution, rather than cellar alchemies) to a general growth in attention towards 'natural' wines: producers as Viglione, anchored to historically rooted processes, find themselves suspended in a perfect balance between tradition and innovation, flowing incessantly one into the other.